The next two days (the last two) involved me spending my time exploring Istanbul herself and immersing myself in the Turkish culture that pervades the streets. It was also a time when I finally got to properly relax and unwind. Before that, just another observation: a good number of the Turkish people can speak a good variety of languages (from English to Italian to Japanese), making communication so easy. That’s one thing they definitely got right. Anyway, in brief, this is what I did on both days:
Day 3: Bosphorus cruise, Pierre Loti Hill, Dolmabahçe Palace, Çamlıca Hill and a night show
Day 4: Galata Bridge, Spice Bazaar, Grand Bazaar and a Hamam
As you can probably tell, day 3 sounds suspiciously like an organised tour. No doubts about that. It was a full day tour (I get to choose) that was thrown in as one of the freebies in my hotel package. Absolutely fantastic. But as all tours have it, I re-emphasise, there was the visit to an outlet again and to make things worse, it was a leather boutique again. The anguish! Anyhow, both the Pierre Loti Hill and Çamlıca Hill were basically just cafes with a great view of different parts of the city (Pierre Loti on the European side while Çamlıca on the Asian side). They were pleasant and good for photos but really nothing to shout about.
The real things to shout about are the cruise on the Bosphorus and the Dolmabahçe Palace. In the case of the Bosphorus cruise, it’s more like screaming about from the strong winds that ceaselessly cuts through your very bones. Other than that, it was a pleasant 2-hour ride down the Golden Horn and Bosphorus where the significant buildings that punctuate the banks of the river were introduced and explained by the guide on-board. The only remarkable thing (taking into consideration that I had already grown immune to being fascinated by religious structures) is this artificial island constructed smack in the middle of the Bosphorus that serves as a nightclub, complete with swimming pool, restaurant and dance floor. But why a nightclub? If you think about it, if people are drunk and it gets really crowded on the dance floor, people may just get silly ideas and start falling off into the river. Nonetheless, it is still quite a cool idea but they had better employ a lifeguard or something.
Now, the Dolmabahçe Palace is on a whole different plane of awesomeness. All I can say is it is nothing like the Topkapi Palace and it is probably comparable to the Palace of Versailles (excluding the garden, which is unparalleled) with its luxurious interior and fantastic location just next to the Bosphorus. Too bad no photos were allowed in the palace itself. I didn’t really expect to see such heavy European influence on Ottoman architecture and this palace defies all my preconceptions. This was home to the Sultans from 1856 up until the abolition of the Caliphate in 1924. Subsequently, the ownership of the palace was transferred to the national heritage of the Turkish Republic. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, its founder and first president, used the palace as a presidential residence during the summers and he died here in 1938. There are so many impressive rooms (not to mention entirely gilded in gold) within the palace with all their posh-looking furniture and even the radiators have gold designed into them. But by far, the Ceremonial Hall of the palace wins all others hands-down. I felt as if I was in the Ayasofya Museum, attempting to judge the height of the ceiling once again. There were galleries (at least 2 stories above) where officials and guests could watch the ceremonial procession in the hall and to give you an idea of how big the hall is, let’s just say that Cirque du Soleil could perform one of its shows comfortably in it (with trapeze and all). That is, of course, after you removed both the massive 5-ton chandelier that hangs in the middle of the hall and the gargantuan carpet (allegedly took 5 years to weave) you could probably fit a small house on. In essence, saying that I was amazed by the Dolmabahçe Palace would be the understatement of the year.
That night, I went for a dinner and night-show at this place called the Sultana’s. At first I was quite apprehensive because I didn’t really fancy having dinner myself but as things turn out, I ended up in the good company of a lady from Hong Kong (also travelling alone) and two Japanese lads who were in Turkey for an English debate competition. It was the first night that I truly enjoyed myself. Fantastic. The food at the place was quite good actually, with Turkish meze and lamb kebabs. And for the pure sake of curiosity, I also tried Turkish raki, an alcohol that I have no idea of whatsoever. Turned out to be non-sweet and anise-flavoured. Ouch. Talk about killing the cat. Anyway, dinner was late (started at 9:00 pm) but the show made the wait worthwhile. There were many segments to the show, all of them interesting but the highlight was the belly-dancing. I never knew it could be so captivating and entertaining. It’s just probably due to the fact that I’m a hot-blooded young male travelling alone in a foreign land but I would prefer to think of it as cultural interest. As if. Too bad there were no whirling dervishes in action though since that would have been as exciting as the belly-dancers (in this case, 100% cultural interest). After being enthralled for the better of 2 hours, the show finally ended and we were ushered dreamy-eyed out of the restaurant and onto the mini-buses that were bound for home. I dreamt of belly-dancers that night. Just kidding.
I spent the last day visiting the bazaars, getting souvenirs and taking a Hamam. In other words, chilling the day away, which was a nice change in pace. And one last observation: I noticed a total of 6 separate Starbucks outlets in Istanbul throughout my stay and the thing is, I only visited a few districts, which means that there are probably more out there. Oh, and there happens to be a Carrefour here too. Istanbul is definitely a good place to be for both tourists and residents alike.
I was heading for the Spice Bazaar in the morning but I ended up walking along the Galata Bridge (spans the Golden Horn) which was just a short walk away. It was quite interesting to see so many people, with their rods in hand, just leaning against the railing, waiting for the fish to take their bait. And I’m not talking about just a handful of fishermen but an almost entire bridge-span (500m maybe) and on both sides of the bridge as well. It was like a national pastime or something. Anyhow, I then went to the Spice Bazaar which I felt paled in comparison to the Grand Bazaar, although the mounds of different spices were quite a sight to behold. Not forgetting to mention that a walk down one of its passages left me with a degree of olfactory trauma. I tried to navigate my way from the Spice Bazaar to the Grand Bazaar without a map (I don’t like to seem to touristy) and ended up in small alleyways packed with a multitude of shops. It was an interesting stroll I must say (with some heart-pounding as well) but with my keen sense of direction, I managed to find one of the many entrances to the Grand Bazaar (Gate 18 apparently). Albeit with a certain measure of chance involved. The Grand Bazaar itself is a sheltered maze of shops that is best described as souvenir paradise or maybe a tourist rip-off, depending on how you look at it. The key is to bargain and probably the best times to go are when the stalls just open or when they are about to close. Anyhow, I got lost within the bazaar quite a number of times, always ending up in a vaguely familiar place. And when I finally managed to find my way out, I somehow had a few new plastic bags in my hands. I tell you, they made the place so confusing so that you would end up buying more stuff.
I ended my exploration of the city with a Hamam, the local term for a Turkish bath. The best way to describe it is as a steam bath, body scrub and massage all rolled into a single session. It was deeply relaxing if you could ignore the other Hamam goers and staff, all in close proximity. There’s a canned tuna quality to the amount of space available and how everyone was packed within that space. If you were not careful, you might see things you never intended to see. I will not elaborate but my only advice is keep your eyes on the ceiling or on yourself. Practicalities aside, I have never felt so exfoliated in my entire life. Come to think of it, the last time someone bathed for me was probably when I was a baby. What luxury! I stepped out a clean and happy man. A perfect end to a fantastic holiday.
Thursday 31 December 2009
Wednesday 30 December 2009
Ephesus - The Truth about Ruins (Day Two)
An early start to the day required me to wake up at 4:30 am. Definitely getting sleep-deprived. I had to catch a flight to Izmir where I would embark on a day tour of Ephesus. Really exciting stuff. Although the itinerary only included the ruins of Ephesus, the house of the Virgin Mary and the Temple of Artemis (or what is left of it), it was in the very least, a guided tour with lunch provided, a nice change when compared to having to settle everything myself.
You know, I realise that ruins appeal to me quite a bit. There’s just something about looking at broken, dilapidated and forsaken structures. Not forsaken in the absolute sense, taking into consideration the fact that people do maintain these sites, but more like forsaken as in taking care of whatever’s remained. It takes quite some skill and effort to maintain these heritage sites in their ‘broken’ states and sometimes I just wonder wouldn’t it be awesome if someone just pumped in the money to restore an entire city or building to their past glory. Now that’s something I’ll keep my eyes open for.
Anyway, the tour started in the nearby town of Selçuk and I got to meet some interesting people: two Japanese ladies in their mid-30s and a couple (more like platonic friends) from London. They were cool people who were touring the highlights of Turkey and who were also going on to visit other countries in the region. Man, I have to come back to Turkey because I missed Pamukkale and Cappadocia. So, if you plan to visit Turkey, please include them in your itinerary!
The first stop was the ancient city of Ephesus. Before that, just a couple of observations I want to highlight first: (i) the souvenir shops in this area are not too subtle about disclosing the origin of their goods since a paradoxical sign read ‘Genuine Fake Watches’ (honesty is a virtue I guess); (ii) there are millions of stray cats roaming the streets of Turkey (be it Istanbul or Selçuk or even Ephesus (the closest thing you get to a scrap of food in this ruined city is probably a rock) but no signs of any stray dogs. Strange but true.
Right, Ephesus. An ancient Greek city that used to be sitting next to the coast but now a barren ground with the receding sea line about 5 kilometres away. This city also proudly owned the Library of Celsius, the third best library in ancient Greek civilisation (first was the Library of Alexandria in Alexandria, Egypt and second was the Library of Pergamum in Pergamum, Turkey). However, it is probably most famous as a biblical city where both Apostles John and Paul had visited and it was this very city that Paul had written his epistle to: Ephesians, the tenth book of the New Testament. Is this cool or what?
The ruins of Ephesus, in my opinion, is very well-conserved, probably one of the best I’ve seen in my life. A hint of how people lived and went about with their daily chores just reflects off the buildings, the cobblestones and even in the very atmosphere of the place. I suspect it would have been one of the places to be during that time. And I’m glad I was on a guided tour because it was like attending lectures on local history and architecture. Let’s just say that I can now differentiate and name the different designs of columns used during that time. And did you know that Nike, the sports company, had its name derived from the Greek Goddess of Victory with the same name? And can you see the resemblance of a tick in the Goddess herself below? Amazing. We learn something new every day.
Then there is the Library of Celsius itself. A very grand building and thanks to the wonders of modern restoration efforts, we can now see it standing, in all its majesty, like how we would then (not exactly but close I would imagine). Legend has it that there was a secret passage linking the library to the building opposite where many a learned man would escape to from the disciplined confines of the pursuit of knowledge. That building was a brothel. Well, I guess men never change and at least these learned men will be good anatomists. Hopefully. The other mega-structure in the city is the Antic Theatre, a semi-circular open-air concert venue that is able to host 20,000 people. The numerous rows of seats are cut into the mountain with the stage at its foot. So the further you are from the stage, the higher you go. I’m sure people queued for tickets at that time as well since those sitting in the back row would end up climbing a mountain. On top of that, they’ll also end up watching ants perform. Not too great in my opinion.
Lunch was at a tour-group oriented restaurant smacked in the middle of nowhere. Food was good though, so nothing to complain about. However, there was then the bane of all existence: the imminent visit to a local products factory outlet (leather clothing but nothing kinky). It was too unremarkable to recall so I’ll just skip it.
We visited the House of Virgin Mary next which is located near the top of a nearby mountain, not too far from Ephesus. This is a place where many pilgrims visit and it really exudes peace and serenity. I felt so humbled being in this place and there would really be no problems at all if I had to spend the rest of my life here. There was a small chapel that was once believed to be the very house that the Virgin Mary resided in after the Ascension of Jesus. Apart from an altar and displays showcasing the gifts from three visiting Popes in the past, there was also a simple, yet heart-warming model of the nativity tucked at a corner next to the altar. Another interesting thing just outside the chapel is a wishing wall, where people would write a wish and just tie it to the strings hanging from the wall. It is amazing how many different messages there are, be it new or weather-worn. There were probably tens of thousands. And it is also amazing how desperate people can be to have their wish come true, or rather, to join in on the novelty of the idea: amongst the small paper scrolls, there were also messages written on leaves, the back of ticket stubs and I even spotted a Singapore Airlines luggage tag. Then again, I did also participate in the frenzy and left my wish there too (on good old mini-notebook paper).
And the final stop of the day was the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Let me give you a brief idea of what I remembered as first impressions.
Tour guide: Alright my friends, we are at the Great Temple of Artemis!
Everyone: Hurray!
Everyone: ~pause~
Everyone: Aren’t we going to walk further in to see the temple?
Tour guide: What do you mean? The temple’s right over here.
Everyone: What? You mean that column over there?
Tour guide: Yup. What were you expecting?
To be fair, it was quite an amazing column. It was at least 4-storeys high and composed of dissociated fragments (thanks to reconstruction again). Apart from that, I must say that I was disappointed but I guess I’m just slapping myself in the face since I didn’t really do proper research. Had it been still standing though, the Temple of Artemis would have been a gigantic temple with over a hundred of those massive columns supporting its roof. It isn’t called a wonder for nothing you know. But as history has it, it got burned down in an act of arson by a Herostratus, whose sole motivation was the quest for fame (or more aptly in this case, infamy). The punch-line though, was that at that very same night, Alexander the Great was born and people actually believed that Artemis was too preoccupied with Alexander's delivery to actually save her burning temple. Denial is a strange strange thing. Over the years, the temple was then reconstructed, and soon razed to the ground again, and then rebuilt again, and then pulled down again, and so and so forth. In its final destruction, no reconstruction was planned as most of the people have converted to Christianity. Instead, in the spirit of recycling, some of the stones were used in the construction of other buildings throughout the area and included the Hagia Sophia all the way in Constantinople. If only UNESCO existed then.
You know, I realise that ruins appeal to me quite a bit. There’s just something about looking at broken, dilapidated and forsaken structures. Not forsaken in the absolute sense, taking into consideration the fact that people do maintain these sites, but more like forsaken as in taking care of whatever’s remained. It takes quite some skill and effort to maintain these heritage sites in their ‘broken’ states and sometimes I just wonder wouldn’t it be awesome if someone just pumped in the money to restore an entire city or building to their past glory. Now that’s something I’ll keep my eyes open for.
Anyway, the tour started in the nearby town of Selçuk and I got to meet some interesting people: two Japanese ladies in their mid-30s and a couple (more like platonic friends) from London. They were cool people who were touring the highlights of Turkey and who were also going on to visit other countries in the region. Man, I have to come back to Turkey because I missed Pamukkale and Cappadocia. So, if you plan to visit Turkey, please include them in your itinerary!
The first stop was the ancient city of Ephesus. Before that, just a couple of observations I want to highlight first: (i) the souvenir shops in this area are not too subtle about disclosing the origin of their goods since a paradoxical sign read ‘Genuine Fake Watches’ (honesty is a virtue I guess); (ii) there are millions of stray cats roaming the streets of Turkey (be it Istanbul or Selçuk or even Ephesus (the closest thing you get to a scrap of food in this ruined city is probably a rock) but no signs of any stray dogs. Strange but true.
Right, Ephesus. An ancient Greek city that used to be sitting next to the coast but now a barren ground with the receding sea line about 5 kilometres away. This city also proudly owned the Library of Celsius, the third best library in ancient Greek civilisation (first was the Library of Alexandria in Alexandria, Egypt and second was the Library of Pergamum in Pergamum, Turkey). However, it is probably most famous as a biblical city where both Apostles John and Paul had visited and it was this very city that Paul had written his epistle to: Ephesians, the tenth book of the New Testament. Is this cool or what?
The ruins of Ephesus, in my opinion, is very well-conserved, probably one of the best I’ve seen in my life. A hint of how people lived and went about with their daily chores just reflects off the buildings, the cobblestones and even in the very atmosphere of the place. I suspect it would have been one of the places to be during that time. And I’m glad I was on a guided tour because it was like attending lectures on local history and architecture. Let’s just say that I can now differentiate and name the different designs of columns used during that time. And did you know that Nike, the sports company, had its name derived from the Greek Goddess of Victory with the same name? And can you see the resemblance of a tick in the Goddess herself below? Amazing. We learn something new every day.
Then there is the Library of Celsius itself. A very grand building and thanks to the wonders of modern restoration efforts, we can now see it standing, in all its majesty, like how we would then (not exactly but close I would imagine). Legend has it that there was a secret passage linking the library to the building opposite where many a learned man would escape to from the disciplined confines of the pursuit of knowledge. That building was a brothel. Well, I guess men never change and at least these learned men will be good anatomists. Hopefully. The other mega-structure in the city is the Antic Theatre, a semi-circular open-air concert venue that is able to host 20,000 people. The numerous rows of seats are cut into the mountain with the stage at its foot. So the further you are from the stage, the higher you go. I’m sure people queued for tickets at that time as well since those sitting in the back row would end up climbing a mountain. On top of that, they’ll also end up watching ants perform. Not too great in my opinion.
Lunch was at a tour-group oriented restaurant smacked in the middle of nowhere. Food was good though, so nothing to complain about. However, there was then the bane of all existence: the imminent visit to a local products factory outlet (leather clothing but nothing kinky). It was too unremarkable to recall so I’ll just skip it.
We visited the House of Virgin Mary next which is located near the top of a nearby mountain, not too far from Ephesus. This is a place where many pilgrims visit and it really exudes peace and serenity. I felt so humbled being in this place and there would really be no problems at all if I had to spend the rest of my life here. There was a small chapel that was once believed to be the very house that the Virgin Mary resided in after the Ascension of Jesus. Apart from an altar and displays showcasing the gifts from three visiting Popes in the past, there was also a simple, yet heart-warming model of the nativity tucked at a corner next to the altar. Another interesting thing just outside the chapel is a wishing wall, where people would write a wish and just tie it to the strings hanging from the wall. It is amazing how many different messages there are, be it new or weather-worn. There were probably tens of thousands. And it is also amazing how desperate people can be to have their wish come true, or rather, to join in on the novelty of the idea: amongst the small paper scrolls, there were also messages written on leaves, the back of ticket stubs and I even spotted a Singapore Airlines luggage tag. Then again, I did also participate in the frenzy and left my wish there too (on good old mini-notebook paper).
And the final stop of the day was the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Let me give you a brief idea of what I remembered as first impressions.
Tour guide: Alright my friends, we are at the Great Temple of Artemis!
Everyone: Hurray!
Everyone: ~pause~
Everyone: Aren’t we going to walk further in to see the temple?
Tour guide: What do you mean? The temple’s right over here.
Everyone: What? You mean that column over there?
Tour guide: Yup. What were you expecting?
To be fair, it was quite an amazing column. It was at least 4-storeys high and composed of dissociated fragments (thanks to reconstruction again). Apart from that, I must say that I was disappointed but I guess I’m just slapping myself in the face since I didn’t really do proper research. Had it been still standing though, the Temple of Artemis would have been a gigantic temple with over a hundred of those massive columns supporting its roof. It isn’t called a wonder for nothing you know. But as history has it, it got burned down in an act of arson by a Herostratus, whose sole motivation was the quest for fame (or more aptly in this case, infamy). The punch-line though, was that at that very same night, Alexander the Great was born and people actually believed that Artemis was too preoccupied with Alexander's delivery to actually save her burning temple. Denial is a strange strange thing. Over the years, the temple was then reconstructed, and soon razed to the ground again, and then rebuilt again, and then pulled down again, and so and so forth. In its final destruction, no reconstruction was planned as most of the people have converted to Christianity. Instead, in the spirit of recycling, some of the stones were used in the construction of other buildings throughout the area and included the Hagia Sophia all the way in Constantinople. If only UNESCO existed then.
Istanbul - Of Mosques and Religion (Day One)
*Muslim prayers resounded through the city*
Curses. I woke up, red-eyed, and fumbled for my watch in the darkness. It was 6:15 am, technically 4:15 am UK time. And this was how my first day began amongst others: with the persistent dripping of some leaky pipe directly above my pillow and arriving late the previous night (or early morning, depends on how you look at it) at the Atatürk International Airport. I definitely have to get used to this.
I was staying at the Ayasofya Hotel in the Sultanahmet district of Istanbul, a very pleasant place to stay, with friendly staff and they offer an amazing package deal. Anyway, after a bit of snoozing, I decided to wake up early to make the most of the day and guess what I saw when I looked out the room window. In direct view and probably line of sight (or sound) was the loudhailer hanging from the minaret of a mosque. Double curses.
I spent the day walking about and visited the Topkapi Palace, the Ayasofya Museum, the Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern. Breath-taking stuff. Makes you wonder how people in the past managed to erect structures so spectacular. Probably with less stringent safety regulations and lots of dying. That having said, both whatever I say or even the pictures I took don’t really do justice to the magnificence of these places. If I were you, I would just book the next flight into Istanbul and take a look for myself. It is that worthwhile.
My first stop was the Topkapi Palace and I must say this place is a gem. And the highlights of the place is the Treasury and the Harem. In the treasury is this 86-carat diamond (called the Spoonmaker’s Diamond or Kaşıkçı Elması) that was freaking huge, probably the size of a huge almond or something. And I mean huge. But what was so enduring (or tragic) about it is it’s story: a poor man found the uncut diamond in some garbage dump and brought it to a jeweller who basically exchanged it for 3 spoons (or something of similar value), thinking it was just a piece of glass. Later then did the jeweller realise that, in fact, it was nothing like glass at all. The news of the diamond spread and before you know it, it came to the possession of one of the Sultans. Not your classic rags to riches story. Imagine how that poor man felt.
Anyhow, I also found the Harem section of the palace rather interesting. To sum it up in a single sentence: the Sultan do sure know how to enjoy himself. Guarded by Black Chiefs (eunuchs with Ethiopian origins), the Harem was an entertainment centre exclusive for the Sultan, fully furbished with dancing girls, concubines and even bathing facilities. At the height of a certain Sultan’s prowess, he had as many as a thousand-odd concubines staying in the harem. TaIk about nothing to do for leisure, I wonder where he gets his strength to do other stuff. And what’s more, these activities are fully sanctioned by the Sultan’s mother, the Sultana, who happens to be the head of the Harem. No comments.
I headed for the Ayasofya Museum next. Its first manifestation was the Hagia Sofia, or the Church of the Holy Wisdom, the bastion of Eastern Orthodoxy, when Constantinople was considered the New Rome. And this was where the Great Schism of 1054 took place where essentially, the Catholic papacy and the local Patriarch effectively excommunicated each other due to doctrinal differences. And then, in another milestone in 1453, when the Ottoman Turks led by Sultan Mehmed II (at age 21 mind you) conquered the city , it was converted into the Ayasofya Mosque. In more recent history, in 1935, under the Turkish Republic, it was secularised and finally converted into a museum, where it still stands today. And I am deeply impressed by this building and just trying to imagine it packed with thousands fervent in prayer, either in an Orthodox or Muslim setting, sends my head spinning. What glorious times they must have been.
In contrast, the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque), just opposite the Ayasofya Museum and across a huge park with a fabulous fountain (great for photos), is still used as a place of worship. And it is the only mosque in Istanbul with six minarets. Its exterior is by far the more imposing of the two but I find its interior disappointing, although still a sight to behold. The thing about mosques that one has to learn to appreciate is probably the interior of the domes. The intricacies of the mosaic patterns involved and the sheer scale of the construction is just too much to take in at times.
There was also the Basilica Cistern, just a few minutes away from the Ayasofya Museum, a hidden labyrinth located within the very foundations of the immediate area. I must say I didn’t really expect to see such a place in Istanbul and I am indeed pleasantly surprised by it. I think it was built during the Byzantine era as a source of water for imperial buildings or something similar along these lines. First impressions evoked a distant memory of watching an old film where Perseus was attempting to kill Medusa in some dark, dank labyrinth. I would have mistaken this place to be where the actual filming took place. It was that genuine and miserable. Incidentally, the main attractions in this place, apart from the numerous clammy columns supporting the life above, are 2 columns which have bases depicting Medusa’s face in different orientations. Talk about coincidence.
Curses. I woke up, red-eyed, and fumbled for my watch in the darkness. It was 6:15 am, technically 4:15 am UK time. And this was how my first day began amongst others: with the persistent dripping of some leaky pipe directly above my pillow and arriving late the previous night (or early morning, depends on how you look at it) at the Atatürk International Airport. I definitely have to get used to this.
I was staying at the Ayasofya Hotel in the Sultanahmet district of Istanbul, a very pleasant place to stay, with friendly staff and they offer an amazing package deal. Anyway, after a bit of snoozing, I decided to wake up early to make the most of the day and guess what I saw when I looked out the room window. In direct view and probably line of sight (or sound) was the loudhailer hanging from the minaret of a mosque. Double curses.
I spent the day walking about and visited the Topkapi Palace, the Ayasofya Museum, the Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern. Breath-taking stuff. Makes you wonder how people in the past managed to erect structures so spectacular. Probably with less stringent safety regulations and lots of dying. That having said, both whatever I say or even the pictures I took don’t really do justice to the magnificence of these places. If I were you, I would just book the next flight into Istanbul and take a look for myself. It is that worthwhile.
My first stop was the Topkapi Palace and I must say this place is a gem. And the highlights of the place is the Treasury and the Harem. In the treasury is this 86-carat diamond (called the Spoonmaker’s Diamond or Kaşıkçı Elması) that was freaking huge, probably the size of a huge almond or something. And I mean huge. But what was so enduring (or tragic) about it is it’s story: a poor man found the uncut diamond in some garbage dump and brought it to a jeweller who basically exchanged it for 3 spoons (or something of similar value), thinking it was just a piece of glass. Later then did the jeweller realise that, in fact, it was nothing like glass at all. The news of the diamond spread and before you know it, it came to the possession of one of the Sultans. Not your classic rags to riches story. Imagine how that poor man felt.
Anyhow, I also found the Harem section of the palace rather interesting. To sum it up in a single sentence: the Sultan do sure know how to enjoy himself. Guarded by Black Chiefs (eunuchs with Ethiopian origins), the Harem was an entertainment centre exclusive for the Sultan, fully furbished with dancing girls, concubines and even bathing facilities. At the height of a certain Sultan’s prowess, he had as many as a thousand-odd concubines staying in the harem. TaIk about nothing to do for leisure, I wonder where he gets his strength to do other stuff. And what’s more, these activities are fully sanctioned by the Sultan’s mother, the Sultana, who happens to be the head of the Harem. No comments.
I headed for the Ayasofya Museum next. Its first manifestation was the Hagia Sofia, or the Church of the Holy Wisdom, the bastion of Eastern Orthodoxy, when Constantinople was considered the New Rome. And this was where the Great Schism of 1054 took place where essentially, the Catholic papacy and the local Patriarch effectively excommunicated each other due to doctrinal differences. And then, in another milestone in 1453, when the Ottoman Turks led by Sultan Mehmed II (at age 21 mind you) conquered the city , it was converted into the Ayasofya Mosque. In more recent history, in 1935, under the Turkish Republic, it was secularised and finally converted into a museum, where it still stands today. And I am deeply impressed by this building and just trying to imagine it packed with thousands fervent in prayer, either in an Orthodox or Muslim setting, sends my head spinning. What glorious times they must have been.
In contrast, the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque), just opposite the Ayasofya Museum and across a huge park with a fabulous fountain (great for photos), is still used as a place of worship. And it is the only mosque in Istanbul with six minarets. Its exterior is by far the more imposing of the two but I find its interior disappointing, although still a sight to behold. The thing about mosques that one has to learn to appreciate is probably the interior of the domes. The intricacies of the mosaic patterns involved and the sheer scale of the construction is just too much to take in at times.
There was also the Basilica Cistern, just a few minutes away from the Ayasofya Museum, a hidden labyrinth located within the very foundations of the immediate area. I must say I didn’t really expect to see such a place in Istanbul and I am indeed pleasantly surprised by it. I think it was built during the Byzantine era as a source of water for imperial buildings or something similar along these lines. First impressions evoked a distant memory of watching an old film where Perseus was attempting to kill Medusa in some dark, dank labyrinth. I would have mistaken this place to be where the actual filming took place. It was that genuine and miserable. Incidentally, the main attractions in this place, apart from the numerous clammy columns supporting the life above, are 2 columns which have bases depicting Medusa’s face in different orientations. Talk about coincidence.
Tuesday 29 December 2009
Constantinople, City of the World’s Desire
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I’ve always wanted to visit Istanbul. Just the sound of her name, with its alluring quality, never fails to caress the very depths of my heart. If she indeed was a woman, my heart would probably stop in its beat under her gaze. Such is the charm of Istanbul. To me anyway.
What I find so fascinating about the city is its cultural richness, its historical importance and its religious undertones. And all because it straddles the Bosphorus, the river that divides Europe and Asia. Istanbul is the Gateway and the flux of people and cultures through her very roads have groomed her to what she is of yesteryears and of today.
Incidentally, the title of this entry is from a book with the same name (by Philip Mansel) and I find it to be suitably appropriate. For those interested, it’s a book about the Ottoman Empire (1453-1924) and Constantinople (present day Istanbul).
Since nobody else was free and I really needed a time-out alone, what better place to go than Istanbul?
And so it begins, the first solo adventure of my lifetime. It is with great excitement and trepidation that I embark on this journey. A journey of self-discovery. Of reflections. And of blah blah blah...
You get my point. To be honest, I’m just trying to cover up the fact that travelling alone for some time can be a tad boring, although, I must admit, it is ultimately still exceedingly interesting.
Enough said. Let us move on with the account proper.
Wednesday 9 December 2009
The Lost Years
Ok guys... I probably need the input of those who are intimately involved but I'm thinking of retrospectively journalling our past adventures! (in other words, flipping the photo albums with a great deal of confabulation)
The events that transpired in the lost years are as follows:
1. West of Scotland Road Trip 2007
2. Gunung Stong 2007
3. Bali 2008
4. Lake District Road Trip 2009
5. Paris-Amsterdam 2009
This is going to be a major undertaking people. I have the photos but I need the memories! So email me, call me, text me, whatever. For the sakes of history, literature and our livers, spleens and stomachs, I implore you to provide me with anything you can remember :)
The events that transpired in the lost years are as follows:
1. West of Scotland Road Trip 2007
2. Gunung Stong 2007
3. Bali 2008
4. Lake District Road Trip 2009
5. Paris-Amsterdam 2009
This is going to be a major undertaking people. I have the photos but I need the memories! So email me, call me, text me, whatever. For the sakes of history, literature and our livers, spleens and stomachs, I implore you to provide me with anything you can remember :)
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